how not to climb harder

Progress?

Finally got on an 8a the other day and you know what?  Didn’t feel too bad. The route in question is Over the Moon Direct, a bit of a classic at LPT (where else?).  Sussing the moves was definitely helped by having beta provided by Keith, who has been working the route a fair bit.  However, being a bit shorter (and stronger!) than me, he’s able to walk through the lower crux and struggles a bit more on the final section, whereas I found the opposite to be true.  I just about managed all the moves in isolation though, so quite pleased. The tough moves low down involved a big crucifix-style span to catch and move off a crozly pinch.  I could fairly easily replicate this on my garage board, which got me thinking… is it very sad to train specifically for a mere 8a in this way? Probably, but what the hell.  I’m not getting any younger!

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