Let it snow, let snow, let it snow
The cold snap that the UK is currently experiencing is not just confined to northern Europe: the majority of Catalunya lies under a thick blanket of snow, and our original plan of heading south to the Prades mountains this weekend was foiled by scenes like these, http://www.tv3.cat/videos/2265279, taken over the weekend.
So on Saturday we went skiing in -14C temperatures, which was cold, and on Sunday PJ and I headed to the last haven of Barcelona’s climbers in warm weather – Sector el Vermell del Xincarró on Montserrat’s south face, shown in all it’s glory in the pictures in this post.
I might as well describe the day for you as it was a fairly typical day of ups and downs at Montserrat. After the ~45 min drive to Montserrat we stopped off in the village of El Bruc, and more specifically for coffee and breakfast at Bar Anna, the Pete’s Eats of Montserrat Sur. Shortly afterwards we drove the extra five minutes to the parking and started walking in. The view that greeted us was this:
As you can imagine, the psyche levels at this moment were pretty high. While it was still very cold, Xincarró is very sheltered and a complete suntrap; our bellies were full of nice coffee and bacon and cheese toasties, and the walls were looking perfect to climb on!
Then inevitably, things turned downhill. What the photo doesn’t show you is the true extent of the Montserrat jungle. Accessing the base of the crag, even at a well-frequented spot like Xincarró, always involves a ridiculous bash through heavy vegetation which leaves you scratched and sweaty. Then you finally reach the base of the crag, look up at the walls, and remember the one shocking fact which you should have remembered before leaving home. And that fact is this:
The climbing in Montserrat is, actually, pretty crap.
Okay, okay. Let’s just say most of the climbing at Montserrat is crap. And let’s qualify that by saying most of the lower grade climbing at Montserrat is pretty crap. Because the thing is, pulling your way up featureless slabs of endless pebbles is, bluntly, dull. Dull, dull, dull.
So after an hour or so yesterday, we were a little bit depressed. We had ticked a couple of very average (read, crap) warm-ups, there was a large group of people taking turns in working a nice 7b+ we wanted to try, the two 7c’s that we fancied a play on were already in the shade, and all the other routes around looked, well, like featureless slabs of pebbles. Sigh.
But after moping listlessly for a while, things got better. We decided to look for a slightly different sector which had some long 6cs on it according to the guidebook, and upon arrival we found an interesting featured wall, some 35m high, with a handful of interesting looking routes. The key with climbing at Montserrat, you see, is to either head for the features, or the overhangs. Both of which guarantee you some form of cracks or pockets that make the climbing more interesting.
So the day finished on the up as we walked back to the car at sunset. On balance, it was a good day – but Montserrat doesn’t half make it hard for itself!
PS I shouldn’t talk down Montserrat too much, as those of you good memories may recall that it is also the site of the best route I have ever done.
Start as you mean to go on
Over the last fortnight I have been doing plenty of things that were good for my climbing, such as hanging under a fingerboard, doing lots of offset pull-ups and going to the bouldering wall. Yet I also did lots of things that might not have been so good for my climbing, mostly involving vast quantities of tasty food, and not an inconsiderable amount of Spanish red wine.
So it was with interest and a little trepidation that I returned to Gelida today although, as it happens, I needn’t have worried. After warming up I ticked Calma Tensa first try, even putting the clips in as I went. And like many succesful redpoints, it even felt easy! On the left is a picture of the route with the line marked in red. The first crux (lower red dot) is awkward but very near the ground, then it’s easy climbing up to an excellent rest on a big jug. After that is the upper crux (middle red dot) which is awkward and balancy on small crimps. This is the bit that was bothering me last time, but today I was feeling really strong and pretty much walked it. Then you clip the final bolt before an easy run out 7a-ish section to finish.
So it was with great relief I clipped the chains. Okay, okay, it is soft-touch for 7b+, but it’s definately the hardest route I’ve ticked, regardless of the grade. So I’m chuffed – the season goal of 7c is looking well within reach!
The other good news is afterwards I made a flash attempt at Chapas Negras, a 7b/+ just to the right of Calma Tensa. With PJ shouting up the beta, I made it all the way to the final clip before succumbing – totally gutted because I found a slightly easier sequence afterwards which might have let me get to the top had I found it first time. Still, a good effort!
Anyway next weekend PJ and I are headed back down south, along with Djanira and our friends Kim and Sameer, who will be going hiking. PJ and I will head for Monsant (sector Racó de Misa, check the link!!) and then to the big cave at Masriudoms (see photo below).
Wow.
